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![](3D"slide0021_image005.gif")
Making A Round Shield That
Will Last!
Ve=
rsion
1.5 29 April 2004=
Giles of Redheugh and Elazar haKanay=
![](3D"slide0013_image006.gif")
Overview
The SCA use of shields is unlike =
the
period use of shields. In hi=
story,
shields were not expecte=
d to
be used for long periods. Th=
ey
were considered to be durable but expendable. However, in the SCA, we desire that our shields la=
st a
long time because we would rather do something
other than build shields before each event.
Wit= h this in mind, this class will layout how we built our round shields and why we think they have lasted for many years. Additionally, this me= thod was accepted as satisfactory at the Hastings 2000 recreation at Battle Abby in England.
Wit= h this in mind, this class will layout how we built our round shields and why we think they have lasted for many years. Additionally, this me= thod was accepted as satisfactory at the Hastings 2000 recreation at Battle Abby in England.
In =
the SCA
our rules restrict the shield construction in that it must minimize damage=
to
the rattan weapons or o=
ther
fighters:
B. Shields:
1. Shields shall be edged with
leather or other padding, or constructed in such a way as to
<=
/span>
minimize the damage to rattan
weapons or other fighters.
2. No bolts, wires, or other o=
bjects
may project more than 3/8 inch (9 mm) from any part of a
shield without being padded.
(Rounded shield bosses are not considered to be projections.)
=
![](3D"slide0013_image007.gif")
Keys to Making the Shield Last
The key to making the shield last=
is
everything must be tightly fastened to the shield.
Any movement, or vibration in any=
part
of the shield causes the wood to be damaged and to eventually
become so loose that it needs to be replaced.
All rivets, nails,
handles, etc. must be tightly and permanently mounted to the
shield.
Now we are now ready to make a shield that will last.
Now we are now ready to make a shield that will last.
REMEMBER, ALL JOINTS AND HOLES MUST
BE TIGHT!
Steps to Creating the Shield
1.Supplies
and tools.
2.Preparing
the rawhide.
3.Choosing
the wood.
4.Cutting
the shield.
5.Drawing lines and drilling the =
holes.
6.Making
faux plank lines.
7.Staining
the shield.
8.The
protective strip.
9.Painting
the shield.
10.The
rawhide edge.
11.The
washers.
12.The
half moons.
13.Mounting
the boss.
14.Mounting
the handle.
15.Both
sides of the finished shield.
![](3D"slide0007_image008.gif")
Supplies and Tools
Sup=
plies:
1,
roughly 1 meter square, high quality plywood
depending on the size of shield you
want.
1, 1 p=
int of
wood stain.
10+, r=
ound
headed rivets.
10+,
1X25X25mm mild steel for the washers.
1, shi=
eld
boss.
1, she=
et of
1mm thick mild steel roughly
the same size as your boss.
100+, =
25mm
carpet tacks.
100+, =
12mm
carpet tacks.
1,
25X25X1000mm hardwood.(for the handle)
2-3, r=
awhide
dog bones.
1 bott=
le of
brown shoe dye.
Variet=
y of
muted colors of paint.
Maskin=
g tape
or spare wood to drill into.
![](3D"slide0007_image009.gif")
Tool=
s:
1, Ball=
peen
hammer
1,
Jigsaw
1, Pair=
of
pliers
1+, Pai=
nt
brush(s)
1, Stain
brush
1, Tub =
of
warm water
1, Dril=
l and
drill bit
1, Nail
set
1, Fine=
wood
file
1,
Pencil
1, Nail=
1, Wood
chisel
1, 1000=
mm
piece of string
½=
;"
- ¾" high density foam
weather stripping
(optional)
Sandpap=
er
Rags=
3;
Rasp
![](3D"slide0007_image010.gif")
1
Ste=
p
![](3D"slide0019_image012.gif")
Preparing the Rawhide
•<=
/span> The=
rawhide
comes in a wide variety of sizes and shapes
and can be found in most pet stores.
<=
span
style=3D'font-size:83%'>• Do NOT get it with any type =
of
flavoring.
• The inner core will not be suitab=
le for
use, so get enough to cover y=
our
shield. Depending on the siz=
e of your shield and the bones themselves, three should=
cover your edge.
• Soak the rawhide for a couple of hours. It should be completely limp and slightly slimy to the touch.&#=
13;• Cut the strips wide enough to go =
from
25mm on one side =
of the
shield to 25mm on the other in order for it to be tacked down.
<=
span
style=3D'font-size:83%'>• 65mm wide strips should be just a=
bout
right.
![](3D"slide0019_image013.gif")
Ste=
p
2
![](3D"slide0019_image014.gif")
![](3D"slide0019_image015.gif")
![](3D"slide0019_image016.gif")
![](3D"slide0004_image017.gif")
Choosing the Wood
• =
Choosing
the proper wood for your shield is possibly the single most important item=
in
creating a shie=
ld.
- A 9mm thick piece of Marine Grade plywood works well.
• Marine grade is tightly
packed and somewhat waterproof.
This will keep wood from accepting water which, over time, will degrade the wood and lend t=
o its
destruction.
•
Historically, some shields were ma=
de
from Linden. However, Linden=
is
hard to find and does not hold up
well to our combat.
=
;
- Choose a loosely la=
yered
piece of wood and it will be damaged quickly.
=
;
- Try and get the ply=
wood
grain on both side going the same direction. This will make the shield “planks” look more realistic.
=
;
- Choose too thick of=
a
piece and it is difficult to handle as a shield.
- A 9mm thick piece of Marine Grade plywood works well.
=
;
- 80 Centimeters acro=
ss is
a good sized shield. 10
Centimeters bigger or smaller is fine too.
![](3D"slide0004_image018.gif")
Ste=
p
3
![](3D"slide0011_image020.gif")
=
Cutting the Shield
•<=
/span> Meas=
ure the inside of =
your boss to determine the size of the center hole.
• Mark and cut the inside hole.
=
• File and sand the inside of the hole until smooth.
![](3D"slide0011_image021.gif")
Ste=
p
•<=
/span> Draw=
two
lines on the board to find =
the
center of the board.
•<=
/span> Nail=
in a
nail where the lines cross=
.
• Attach one end of the string to the nail and attach a pencil to the =
other end.
• Draw a circle.
![](3D"slide0011_image022.gif")
4
![](3D"slide0022_image024.gif")
Drawing Lines and
Drilling
the Holes
the Holes
![](3D"slide0022_image025.gif")
Ste=
p
5
![](3D"slide0022_image026.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image027.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image028.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image029.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image030.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image031.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image032.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image033.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image034.gif")
![](3D"slide0022_image035.gif")
![](3D"slide0016_image036.gif")
Making Faux Plank Lines
•<=
/span> Clam=
p a
straight edge to both sides of the shield and drag a chisel backwards toward you at a 45 degree =
angle to cut slightly into the wood.
<=
span
style=3D'position:absolute;top:31.0%;left:24.34%;width:69.66%;height:4.25%=
'>• Drag a medium flat head head screw=
driver
with the =
grain of the wood to create the illusion of the shield being made of planks.
• The line does not need to be deep.=
The stain will make the wood darker so it will appear to be deeper tha=
n it
is.
• Insu=
re you
make the faux plank lines on both sides of your shield.
![](3D"slide0016_image037.gif")
Ste=
p
6
![](3D"slide0018_image038.gif")
• Stai=
n the
back of the shield to help protect the wood and to increase the illusion that the shield =
is not made of plywood.
• If you will not be painting the sh=
ield,
stain both sides.
• Let it dry, perhaps overnight, unt=
il you
can pull your hand across =
it
without it feeling tacky.
•
<=
/span> Reme=
mber to
do it outside or in a well ventilated
room.
Staining the Shield
![](3D"slide0018_image039.gif")
Ste=
p
7
![](3D"slide0003_image040.jpg")
Protective Strip
![](3D"slide0003_image041.gif")
Pipe Banding:
• Pipe banding can be fou=
nd in
the plumbing section.=
Get one just as wide as you shield edge or slightly wider.
<=
/span>• Use 13mm carpet tacks to secure ed=
ge =
onto shield edge
• If the pipe banding over laps the =
shield
edge, once the edge is secure,=
curl
edge by tapping with ha=
mmer.
![](3D"slide0003_image042.gif")
Ste=
p
![](3D"slide0003_image043.gif")
![](3D"slide0003_image044.gif")
8
![](3D"slide0003_image045.gif")
Weather stripping:
• If you want to add a bit of padding, attach a layer of weather <=
span
style=3D'position:absolute;top:82.0%;left:4.86%;width:40.63%;height:4.25%'=
>stripping after the banding has been attached. ![](3D"slide0017_image047.gif")
Painting the Shield
•<=
/span> Earl=
y period
designs were geometric or commonly
an animal or monster of some sort. Individual people did not general=
ly have blazons attributed only to them.
• Exceptions were the Chieftains or = Kings such as King Harold who had a warrior standing upright with shield and axe as his his personal symbol.
• Exceptions were the Chieftains or = Kings such as King Harold who had a warrior standing upright with shield and axe as his his personal symbol.
• Try and use soft muted =
colors
as high quality stains we=
re
very uncommon and most likely
not used on such expendable items such
as shields.
<=
span
style=3D'font-size:83%;visibility:hidden'>•
<=
span
style=3D'font-size:83%'>• Let the paint dry overnight.
![](3D"slide0017_image048.gif")
Ste=
p
9
![](3D"slide0009_image049.gif")
The Rawhide Edge
![](3D"slide0009_image050.gif")
![](3D"slide0009_image051.gif")
![](3D"slide0009_image052.gif")
• 1. Nail in tack from front to back=
. Pull backside of rawhide ov=
er nail
and pierce the rawhide.
•<=
/span> 3. Secure nail through rawhide and=
into
shield. Trim excess rawhide.
<=
span
style=3D'mso-special-format:bullet;position:absolute;left:-1.2%'>• 2. Curl nail with pliers just past=
90
degrees.
1
3
2
Ste=
p
Edge Tacks:
Use 25mm carpet tacks.
If head of tack is perfectly round, file or grind =
head slightly to take away the modern look.Rawhide
Pipe Banding
=
; &n=
bsp;
Plywood
![](3D"slide0009_image053.gif")
10
![](3D"slide0009_image054.gif")
=
Make sure your =
3;
kingdom/group
=
;
rules allows
=
the use of tacks.&=
#13;
Alternative secur=
ing
fashion is to use
lacing
and holes every inch.
Check with your local Kingdom Earl
Marshal to ensure the use of brads or tacks is allowed!
![](3D"slide0005_image055.gif")
The Washers
Rivet washer:
• Cut a piece of 1mm mild steel squa=
re and
then cut off the corners=
. Curl the edges down so the washer=
digs
into the shield slightly.&#=
13;
<=
span
style=3D'font-size:75%'>• Use these washers on both sides of=
the
shield.
• If you cannot make washers use mod=
ern
washers but use a grinder=
to
uneven them a bit.![](3D"slide0005_image056.gif")
![](3D"slide0005_image057.gif")
Ste=
p
![](3D"slide0005_image058.gif")
11
![](3D"slide0020_image059.gif")
The “Half Moons”
Half Moons:
• Use 1mm thick mild steel and cut o=
ut the
same diameter as the outer edg=
e of
the shield boss.
• These half moons will secure the b=
oss to
the front of the shie=
ld and
keep the rivets from teari=
ng up
the wood.
•
<=
/span> Make=
sure
the holes are exactly the right size for
your rivets.
•<=
/span> If y=
ou
cannot make these, use large washers on
each of the four rivets.Boss
“Half Moons”
![](3D"slide0020_image060.gif")
![](3D"slide0020_image061.gif")
Ste=
p
12
![](3D"slide0024_image062.gif")
Mounting the Boss
•<=
/span> Pla=
ce the
“Half Moons” next to the hole and mark the holes on the “Half Moons”.=
3;• Place the boss over the hole and =
mark
the holds
=
• Place the boss over the hole in t=
he
shield and line up and mark =
the
holes.
• Drill the holes in both the ̶=
0;Half
Moons and the Boss.
• Place the “Half Moons”=
; and
the Boss back in place=
and
rivet them on.
•
<=
/span> Rem=
ember
the key to success is make sure they
are absolutely tight.
![](3D"slide0024_image063.gif")
Ste=
p
13
![](3D"slide0024_image064.gif")
![](3D"slide0023_image065.gif")
![](3D"slide0023_image066.gif")
Mounting the Handle
![](3D"slide0023_image067.gif")
• If possible, counter sink the handle a few millimeters into the
![](3D"slide0023_image068.gif")
Ste=
p
![](3D"slide0023_image069.gif")
14
Boss
Front of shield
Handle
![](3D"slide0023_image070.gif")
![](3D"slide0023_image071.gif")
![](3D"slide0023_image072.gif")
“=
;Cut
Away Side View”
![](3D"slide0023_image073.gif")
• Insert the rivets from the front o=
f the shield, through the boss or washer and place a washer on the
Wash=
ers or
boss and “half moons”
![](3D"slide0023_image074.gif")
![](3D"slide0002_image075.gif")
Both Sides of Shield
•<=
/span> Use =
Brown
shoe polish to darke=
n the
rawhide after it dries=
.
' + ENDSHOW_MESG + '
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